6/4/2023 0 Comments Barbarian days of surfing![]() Here he experiences the racial tensions between native Hawaiians and white Americans. (His father produced the TV series “ Hawaii Five-0.”). ![]() Finnegan’s surfing life from his childhood in California and then Hawaii, where his family moved. The surf subculture anyway fascinates the mainstream audience, maybe that is the reason why Amazon Studios optioned the movie rights of “Barbarian Days”. But surfing remains a subculture, I’m glad to say, rich in arcana, hard to explain to outsiders”. ![]() “If we’re talking about books” says Finnegan in an interview “surfing is tiny, considering how many people surf and care deeply about it. For the first time a book about surfing awards the Pulitzer and ranks as best seller in the USA market. But he gained the highest award publishing his sports autobiography. It dealt whit issues like foreign policy, wars, racism and poverty. The author and main character is William Finnegan, 65 years old, and for more than 30 journalist and reporter for The New Yorker. It is a love story between the author and surfing and like all the best love stories, it changes its shapes and expressions during the different life stages, but it never fades. “Barbarian Days” exactly tells the story of the author’s life through the evolution of his passion, which he follows all around the world. ![]() To surfers, surf is life and simultaneously a way to find themselves. ![]()
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